So, Lulu Kennedy’s Fame Accademy of London Fashion Week didn’t disappoint.
First up was Heikki Salonen. The black, hit-man-does-eveningwear tones of last season gave way to a minimal collection that looked as though it was cut from the concrete grays of a cloudy London sky. Grungey tees and maxi skirts were complimented with a line in tailoring that toyed with form and proportion. It was infinitely wearable and a great example of a designer developing ideas from previous seasons.
Next was Felicity Brown. Here is a designer in love with her materials. The ruffled cocktail dresses were a welcome change from the pleats of last season. In leaving the edges of the colourful silks raw, she celebrated the fabric and created a kind of deconstructed glamour that felt thoroughly current. The raw edges idea was followed through to a series of minimal separates, contrasting beautifully with the froufrou frocks.
Simone Rocha’s presented an all white collection of smoke-thin tulle and blocky peek-a-boo tailoring. It had something of the Margiella about it, in its surreal glamour. Although it’s difficult to imagine the fashion-buying public rushing out to buy a blazer with half the panels missing or a completely transparent skirt, the minimal slip dresses and singlets were a success. The accessories were also a triumph, especially the steel collar chokers which brought to mind all-male dance troupe, The Chippendales. The stand out piece was a beautiful sleeveless blazer-dress.
- Aaron Francis Walker
Photography – Rishi Mullett-Sadones