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Key Trends for Autumn/Winter #1: New Minimalism

The considered trend for combined simplicity and luxury has cleared the path for the rather perfectly coined phrase ‘new minimalism’.  Attributed in most part to Phoebe Philo, creative director of Celine, who has set the benchmark for pared-down chic, this is grown up clothing with its foundation firmly set in tailoring.

Luxe fabrics uniting with a demure colour palette and ‘less is more’ attitude have been paraded across the runways, providing its wearer with an air of confidence, a low-maintenance appearance, and most influentially, something for everyone.

Hakaan set the concept alight at London Fashion Week with his figure sculpting twist and emphasis on linear formations as models showed how to work the trend in an overtly feminine manner. New minimalism according to Hakaan is far from boring and his collection for AW 2010 goes above and beyond bringing sexy back.

A little look to the Belgian contingent offers us minimalism in a cool, modern way where the choice is huge and the results effortlessly striking.  Both Dries Van Noten and Maison Martin Margiela embraced this minimalist trend, albeit in differing ways, as Margiela referred this to their usual ideas of conceptualism and statement-making and Dries opted to will us to dress us like ladies this season.  The effect of both is stunning and the temptation to starve in order to save on mundanities like food costs as the Visa takes a beating absolutely overwhelming.

Thankfully, when the finances don’t allow for such extravagances, the high street has grabbed the trend with both hands through an encyclopaedic selection that makes new-minimalism achievable for all and sundry.  Here we must give thanks to not just Uniqlo but the rather formidable Jil Sander as both the Japanese retailer and the queen of understatement joined forces to bring high class design to the masses.  Unreservedly dripping in minimalism and involving the style, cut and fabrics associated with the Jil Sander dream; here you can get your hands an item for under fifty quid.  There are no excuses now.

Finally, for those who want in on something of an industry secret, allow us to introduce you to a young designer by the name Thomas Tait (Check our our interview with his music producers, Battant, from this season’s LFW).  His manipulation of the ideas of new-minimalism contained within his graduate debut at LFW in February gave us an all black palette and a silhouette so exquisite it’s tempting to do like the late Isabella Blow and purchase the collection in its entirety.  Clothes like this serve to dispel trends as the originality and flair speaks for itself and Tait’s couture approach takes simplicity in a whole new direction.

- Francesca Strange

Photo: Vogue.co.uk



One Comment on “Key Trends for Autumn/Winter #1: New Minimalism”

  • AnitaB October 25th, 2010 9:49 pm

    Very insightful. Love the international angle. I will be checking out these designers for my key autumn pieces.
    Looking forward to the next installment.


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