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LFW: Belle Sauvage

It’s hard to imagine that only a few years ago pattern was the undervalued, infrequently seen Cinderella of the London catwalk.  These days it seems impossible to throw a brick without hitting a fractal print, and its growth can be traced though its pioneers Basso and Brooke to mainstream visibility with Sarah Burton’s first collection for McQueen. Belle Sauvage had a distinctly Gothic take on things this season with a collection which, according to their press release ‘infuses sacral iconography with fractal compression’.
 
The show opened with an almost catwalk-wide headpiece designed by the designers in collaboration with occasional Charlie Le Mindu co-conspirator Lara Jensen. The cultural symbolism of this sadly escapes me, but rarely has a big hat seemed so ominous. Soundtracked by techno overlaid with bracing death metal growls, the religious imagery was a subtle presence, most evident in the cruciform panels built into the surprisingly wearable bodycon dresses. A preoccupation with devilry was also apparent in the devil’s horn shapes built into the shoulders which were echoed by the some of the most visually pleasing and original prints seen this fashion week so far.

-Alexa Hall

Photos: Rishi Mullett-Sadones



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