Three designers that stood out for us at the esthetica exhibition were Noki, From Somewhere and Anneli Linder. Noki has withdrawn entirely from the bright neons that used to define him. The re-appropriated sportswear is still there as are the slashed up new era caps, but something has changed. There’s a more gothic and luxurious tone to this collection, especially in the 4 piece one-offs collection, Noki Noir, where dark sportswear has been transformed into incredibly detailed floor length gowns. Speaking of gowns – From Somewhere is a label who has built a relationship with speedo and who transforms their dead stock swimming costumes into these mental gowns. We absolutely love the idea of them, but can’t fathom the kind of woman that would pop one on in real life – great for shoots though. Expect to see them gracing the pages of Notion soon. Anneli Linder’s gloves were amazing. They’re made from recycled coats and hand embroidered by the lady herself. We particularly liked the early 90s inspired black leather mittens and the folky fur trimmed ones. The latter were inspired by the Swedish tradition of handmade wedding gifts and were beautifully embroidered with the date they were made. It’s this kind of inventive and engaging design that’s likely to keep people interested ethical design. Lets hope so.
-Aaron F. Walker
Photography by Abi Green