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LFW: Maria Francesca Pepe

The Freemasons Hall at Vauxhall Fashion Scout proved to be an appropriately eerie setting for the Maria Francesca Pepe’s presentation. Accompanied by sinister, haunting music and red lighting, Pepe showcased a darkly gothic combination of sheer dresses and spiked gold and silver jewellery. The models, positioned on plinths like Classical antiquities in the V&A, were wraithlike in fleshtoned sheers over deep blacks, their shimmering body makeup in direct contrast with the matte silk fabrics. Jewellery was playful but fierce; letter badges spelling out LONDON, FEAR and FORTUNA (the name of the collection) sat amongst plaited leather necklaces, cuffs and enormous gold pieces, with studded headpieces being a particular highlight. Bondage influences were clear, and they gave a dark spin on the tops screen-printed with Hollywood starlets. MFP’s collection was a treasure trove of surprisingly wearable pieces in luxe materials that showcased the extraordinary attention to detail and craftsmanship for which MFP is known.

-Seb Law

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