Menswear Special: Daniel Jenkins

In our second day looking at the changing climate of menswear in the British Fashion Industry, we talk to retailer, and menswear expert Daniel Jenkins. Daniel’s business is dedicated to supporting emerging British Menswear talent, stocking unique labels that you wouldn’t find in every store. We chatted to the dapper Mr. Jenkins, and are excited to share his eloquent and provoking thoughts on menswear Fashion.

PlanetNotion : How do you feel about the current climate in the British Menswear industry?

Daniel Jenkins: Hopeful. One always has to be hopeful in life! Seriously though, it’s slowly getting to the level that it deserves to be at. There has been a vast improvement in support structures the last 6 months or so.

PN : Even with Menswear day at LFW, do you think that British Menswear is receiving all the support and recognition it should?

DJ: I’m a firm believer in creating your own support and never, ever believing the hype. Fashion is such a complex industry which can swallow a lot of people who perhaps didn’t keep their nose to the grindstone. Yes, we need more support from the organisations that oversee fashion. However, it needs to be the right support. No one supports us as a business and we will get there through our hard work, luck and hopefully a little bit of talent.

PN: How do you feel both Menswear designers and the consumer have changed in recent years?

DJ: Consumers still want something a little different and unusual. They–as I do when I go shopping – want to purchase something which makes them smile, stand a little straighter and add to their daily armour. Too many people are doing the same boring thing, that’s fine – not my place to tell them what to do and vice versa. The same idea applies to designers. I’m not sure they have changed as such, and it really depends upon which level of the industry you are dealing with.

PN: In terms of menswear, do you think there has been a return to the gentleman in terms of style? Traditional shapes and garments given new youth?

DJ: Personally, I believe being a gentleman has nothing to do with how you dress. Being courteous and treating people with the respect you would expect to be treated with makes one a gentleman. Plenty of cads are wonderfully dressed. I’m currently more interested in more avant-garde shapes.

PN: Where do you see the future of British Menswear heading in both the UK and global market?

DJ: With regards the global future I do believe that the work of the BFC regarding the London Showrooms in Paris and New York will have an impact in getting labels out there.

PN: Which British menswear stores are your favourite haunts and why?

DJ: I look at every store – anyone who works as a buyer says that they don’t is lying. I get my ties from Budd and if I need a particular type of shirt I’ll pop to Turnbull and Asser. I love what 39.39 are doing and I greatly admire John Skelton’s work with LN-CC particularly the womenswear which is possibly the best in London.

PN: When hunting for new labels to stock, what in particular attracts you?

DJ: It’s that initial buzz you get. Remember the feeling you get maybe once or twice in your life when you go into a club and met someone for the first time and thought wow, something could happen here. It’s a little bit like that but without love/lust and purely based upon cut and fabric.

PN: Which emerging designers have hit your radar recently and why?

DJ: Personally this autumn I’ll be wearing a lot of James Small’s work with some battered Vans.

PN:  What kind of man do you think you’re store appeals to?

DJ: We only sell stock that I would and do wear. Therefore it probably applies to celtic men who read too much and perhaps contemplate life more than they ought…

PN: What is the philosophy behind your store? What differentiates you from other independent retailers?

DJ: Simple philosophy is to support emerging British menswear talent. Sell labels which perhaps wouldn’t be stocked elsewhere. Offer something a little different and have some fun. I want people to stand up and take notice of British labels. What the UK does do is provide the agenda for the rest of the world’s menswear. You walk through Shoreditch and you will see guys wearing what guys in Paris and New York will be wearing in the future. We (and in part it is my job) need to harness that and show the world that all of this creativity can be profitable and offer men around the world another way to stand out.

Shop With Daniel Jenkins here : www.danieljenkins.co.uk

-Kathryn Duncan