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LFW: Pringle – Show Report

It seems relevant, somehow, that Pringle, unlike its headscarf-wearing competitor Burberry, is not an English label. Instead of either wallowing in anodyne, unthinking rehashes of its classics or totally abandoning its history, here was an intelligent, subtle collection produced of a house mindful of its roots without being suffocated by them. And its simplicity and economy of embellishment seemed profoundly Scottish. Never has the brand’s figurehead, the always luminous Tilda Swinton, appearing in the front row in an intarsia jumper sans make-up, seemed a more appropriate choice.

Knitwear has always been at the heart of Pringle and naturally it was much in evidence. The show commenced with a selection of grey jumpers and jumper dresses with multi-coloured spiky geometric motifs providing a shot of quiet modernity. Elsewhere there were reinterpretations of the brand’s classic twinsets which eschewed pearls and tweed archness and instead had an early 60s retro-futurism. A simple, mod-inspired monochrome palette was electrified by neons, often in an interlocking chain knit that reoccurred and the shift tops had trompe l’oeil v-shapes in a flash of quiet subversion. Elsewhere the button-up shirts that were layered under cardigans in a way that seemed to echo Jil Sanders-esque severity more than sexy secretary cliché. All in all, an intriguing collection that was all the more interesting for its refusal to go the usual route of the heritage house.

- Alexa Hall

- Photography: James Hawley

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