The scene: a dark car garage in the east of Paris, where the the international fashion crowd struggled to find their comrades in the gloom. The show : Joseph Thimister, former creative director for Balenciaga’s vision of a sombre summer.
The male and female models, with their hair bandaged to their heads with what looked like 20 denier tights, presented a vision that was part monastic, part Japanese fisherman. The first looks cast in white appeared in the strain of an austere Miss Havisham, with long sheer skirts and billowing shirts. Thick loose knits were shredded and cobweb-by, like discarded fishing nets. High necklines were accentuated with oversized corset belts, which rather than fitted to the form of the body, stood severe like an armour. The models walked purposefully and sombrely in their flat leather sandals, like monks fleeing a pillaging horde.
The classical opera soundtrack was accompanied by the occasional shriek and clash, which only heightened the sense of impending doom.
Thimister’s collection certainly doesn’t follow the trend of jewels colours and prints from London and Milan, but the vision was impressive, if not a little gloomy.
- Words and photography: Imogen Roy