Fierce LDN: Louis Mariette

On the second day of looking at London’s most talented accessory designers, we talk to milliner Louis Mariette. It is truly an honour to feature this fantastical, opulent and brilliantly creative artist here on Planet Notion.  Based in Chelsea, Louis fashions beautifully whimsical bespoke hats and headpieces.  Born in Malawi, Mariette grew up in Botswana and Swaziland, with Africa’s rich array of colours still evident in his designs today.

Louis’s pieces have been more than popular with fashion press and stylists featuring in publications such as Vogue, Vanity Fair and Elle. His ethereal creations have also been adorned by some of the world’s most beautiful and eclectic women including Jerry Hall, Alek Wek, Lady Gaga, Sophie Dahl and Kate Moss.

PlanetNotion: Accessories are so important in the completion of an outfit and allow for a lot of true, meaningful self-expression. Can you describe your aesthetic or design ethos?

Louis Mariette: I always like to consider who my customer is: her character, likes and dislikes, and then take it from there when designing my pieces. It is very important to think of the occasion the piece would be worn to and not getting carried away with OTT designs.

PN:  What made you become an accessory designer rather than apparel? What is about accessory design that you are attracted to / excites you?

LM: Being an accessories designer I get to experiment a lot. Working with different materials such as crystals and beads, I try out different techniques like acid dipping; it just makes it much more exciting and fun.  I like sourcing different materials from around the world and I do believe that accessories, especially hats, bring out different sides of a personality. It takes a character to wear some of my pieces!

PN:  There is something timeless about accessories that other clothing items don’t share, with the ability of passing on to loved ones and from generation to generation. Is that an element included in your design process?

LM: Very much so. Hats are always an individual purchase and so very much an heirloom.  The 1920s era, as well as the 50s, has always provided a great inspiration. Accessories can be timeless, which is great, I always tend toward classical Hollywood siren look as then it can be passed from mother to daughter!

PN:  The intricacy of accessories and their possibilities for fantastical design is immense. Is there anything in particular you are trying to express through your designs?

LM: Headpieces are slightly different to other accessories like necklaces and bracelets, there’s a lot to consider when transforming vision to the reality. I need to be aware of the practicality and wear-ability of my headpieces, as well as hair colours and facial features.  I try to portray elegancy and glamour of the past, but with a modern twist.

PN: Can you describe your technical process in producing headwear?

LM: Each piece is quite different so the process will be different as well, but there is a lot of handwork involved. Sometimes it is purely the result of trial and error when creating something new or trying to pioneer techniques.

PN: Detail is very important in accessory design and its beauty. Is that something you enjoy in your design creation?

LM: I am very passionate about what I do, so every aspect of design and creation is an enjoyment.

PN: What can we expect to see from you in the future?

LM: More fabulous hats but also expanding in other creative areas, so watch this space.

PN:  Who would you ideally like to see wearing your designs?

LM: Everyone. I do not concentrate on celebrities of the moment, I do like to think my headpieces are out there for every woman to wear and enjoy no matter what age or status.

PN:  What’s your favourite piece from your current collection and can you explain why?

LM: It has to be Clematis from my current Spring/Summer12 collection. It’s a very feminine piece, very intricate and bright, but it has a little dark twist to it.

PN:  What gives you your initial ideas and inspiration every season?  Is there a particular person or thing that can be described as your muse? How do you translate your vision into realised items?

LM: Nature has always been a great source of inspiration for me – the colours, sounds, birds and all creatures. As far as muses go, I don’t have anyone in particular, however I do appreciate elegance and sophistication, so to that extent, someone like Queen Rania of Jordan would be ideal.

- Kathryn Duncan