PFW: Yohji Yamamoto AW12

The show begins with oversized coats, falling loosely in true Yamamoto form. Charcoals and hints of red are prominent, but as the show progresses we begin to see more colour play. Neon pink, aqua, and yellow ties are complimented by purple and green boots which accent dark and brooding woollen tailcoats, very much suggestive of Victorian influence. Tweed is also a main feature; both small and large prints, in both outerwear and tailoring. The colourway changes to more earthy tones, with burgundy, dark khaki and ochre appearing on floor length fur-hooded fleece cloaks. Hats are almost always worn, from flat caps, to pork pies, to hoods, to Mad Hatter style top hats. Details include slits at the elbow and shoulder, asymmetrical lapels and meticulous accessorising. Yamamoto subtly contrasts colour, texture, and styling to produce a collection that looks as though Dickens and Robert Louis Stevenson have been incepted and created a soft yet masculine, rugged yet gentrified lovechild.

- Adam Gavshon-Brady