Interview: Emerging Aussie Label Zsadar
You might have noticed that we spend quite a bit of time pon de Twitter. We’re social beings (most of the time) and it’s really where all the most exciting newsy-internetty-bits are exploding. As you probably know. Anyways, when Aussie designer Shane Newton did a show back at the end of 2011 (for Aussie SS12, which is of course now, although we’re in AW11 in the UK now and about to preview the SS12 season in February), it ALL KICKED OFF on the Twitter. And no wonder. The show was a PROPER show, with theatrics, skateboarding and pyrotechnics. A pretty good beginning for someone just starting out. We had a brief catch-up with Mr Shane Newton, Zsadar‘s Creative Director to discuss what the label is all about.
PN: Can you describe your label’s design ethos and aesthetic?
SN: I don’t really have an ethos when it comes to designing. I know what I like and I just do it – I never question it. I work purely on instinct but if I had to dissect it, I would would say that ZSADAR pushes the boundaries of menswear by challenging conventional expectations on what is and what isn’t menswear.
I started ZSADAR from a lack of available Australian designer menswear. I found it difficult to find Australian-made garments that I wanted to wear. Even though I’m not formally trained in fashion, I have a design background which has helped greatly.
The aesthetic derives from what I’m passionate about when it comes to what I want to wear. Every single piece has my DNA in it and is something I want in my own wardrobe. I don’t compromise on quality and like most people, when I buy something I want to know it’s going to be of the highest quality, is timeless in style and will last for a long time.
PN: Playing with proportion and shape seems integral to your collection. Is that a large part of what defines your brand?
SN: I deliberately create clothes that can’t be bought off the rack in just any store. This is because when designing something I like to question and challenge myself. Why does a button up shirt have to be symmetric? Why cant seams be exposed or reversed on the exterior of a garment. I like to play with proportions because it’s fun to mix things up. Also, I’m 6’2 and thin so the fit is for a tall and slender silhouette. I found most clothes off the rack never fit properly anyway – they’re usually too boxy – short and overly wide.
PN: Can you explain a little more about drawing inspiration from the ideas of androgyny, anarchy and conceptualism
SN: To me all of these things symbolise a level of rebellion or pushing the boundaries. Starting ZSADAR was something I wanted to do on my own terms and rules. I’m lucky in the sense that I only have to answer to myself which means I’m very comfortable taking risks and making choices, which may seem unsafe from a commercial point of view. Every decision I make about ZSADAR is based on artistic merit which clients respect and one of the reasons they are attracted to the brand.
PN: Black is predominant in your collection. Do you think this colour palette will ever expanded or will this be a trademark?
SN: Black was used in the most recent spring/summer collection because it worked with the theme – The Creature in the Mirror. As much as I love black it can be a predictable choice and won’t always be appropriate for each and every collection. The collection I’m currently working on is about the human organism therefore I’m using a lot of skin tone coloured fabrics. I do love black though and it’s a very comfortable colour to work with – maybe this is why I’m not using it at all this time.
- Interview by Kathryn Duncan
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