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LFW Interview: Martine Rose

Martine Rose has quickly become one of the London menswear fashion favourites. And we have to say, it is perfectly apparent why. While olive green, bright purple and neon red hair wrapped itself closely around the models’ neck and face, a self-serving scarf if you will, shiny shiny bombers made their way down the catwalk with irresistibly touchable badges. White shirts with black mohair trims, black ties and a well placed zip added a touch of class, and surprisingly short, colourful knits brought the fun right back again. All in all, an absolute treat, topped off by a lovely little chat with the designer herself backstage.

Planet Notion: Congrats on the show!

Martine Rose: Thank you!

PN: Could you talk us through the collection?

MR: There were a few streams running through it… It was initially inspired by Man Ray, that was the first reference. Mainly the period when he was collecting jewellery, that whole art scene actually, but collecting jewellery and artefacts, African masks in particular, which inspired the sort of African trim. The bombers have also got badges which are photocopies of my jewellery.

PN: Wow, you must have a great collection!

MR: I do actually! I’ve got a bit of an archive going on, slowly been building it up.

PN: Which of your pieces in particular did you use for the badges?

MR: Oh I have lots of really big brass earrings and we photocopied them on a really old photocopier, to get a really grainy feeling. I was sort of trying to emulate Man Ray’s solarisation technique, which is where the image is really bleached and there was a sort of black line around it. Then also the shirts, there was mohair in all of the seams, so it is heavily inspired by Man Ray.

PN: There were a lot of different fabrics throughout the collection, what directed your choice?

MR: It’s difficult to say really! Sometimes the fabric comes first in a design and then sometimes you choose the fabric around the design. It’s really hard when you back and think exactly what the process was…I know what I wanted, I knew the feeling that I wanted.

PN: So how would you describe the Martine Rose man?

MR: Well I think someone that enjoys fashion, someone that enjoys having fun, confident…I don’t know, a nice guy!

PN: And so how are you going to celebrate?

MR: I might sleep…only for a bit and then I’m going out!

PN: A power nap!

MR: Yeah, a disco nap!

Words – Laura Peebles
Photos – Kevin Chesnais

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