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LFW Interview: Matthew Miller

It’s a credit to Matthew Miller that, despite his show being the last Somerset House presentation of London Fashion Week AW12, it was still rapturously received by exhausted showgoers. Featuring the innovative digital prints that are fast becoming his trademark, Miller sought to explore the tension between man -made environments and the natural processes of decay and weathering. The signifiers of exploration – rucksacks and techno fibres – were reimagined for urban travellers, while others contrasted the modern prints with sharply elegant tailoring. For those not ready for the head-to-toe patterns, there was the boots – designed in collaboration with classic footwear brand Oliver Sweeney.

Planet Notion: Your show’s just over – how do you feel now?

Matthew Miller: Relieved. And I can get pissed tonight, to be honest with you.

PN: How did you feel the reaction was – the room was rammed and everyone seemed to love it…

MM: I’m shocked. I kept saying to Rob, the PR, ‘I don’t think anyone’s going to turn up’.

PN: You should have seen the queues…

MM: Was it outrageous, the queues?

PN: Pretty bad. But all worth it, of course. I’ve heard you take journeys as your inspiration. Could you expand on that a bit more?

MM: I enjoy walking round London a lot. But walking round London every day, I’m amazed at what you find. And I wanted to communicate that to people. And about how certain things evolve and change over time and how we can find beauty in things people walk past every day. It’s amazing, do you know what I mean?

PN: So it’s looking at London or an urban environment as you might the countryside?

MM: A lot of people don’t find beauty in the everyday and I think that’s the main thing. It’s about the evolution of surface design as well. If you scan the pictures on your mobile it takes you exactly to the geographical location and how it’s evolved. So some of the surfaces are exactly the same but the graffiti surfaces are sprayed over so it’s almost about time and I find that quite attracting. So I might go back in ten years and redo it.

PN: And that’s your 2022 collection?

MM: Exactly.

PN: Did the utilitarian shapes follow through on that?

MM: With all the prints, it needed that juxtaposition of being beautiful with really beautiful tailoring so as not to be trashy and the same with the styling.

PN: Tell us about your collaboration with Oliver Sweeney.

MM: I went to them with this idea and I thought they were going to tell me to do one, basically. But they bought into it and said ‘yeah, we’re going to do it’. And they did the shoes straight away and they got the prints and the shoes were made in Italy. They got to Paris, got to here. It’s really amazing but I haven’t got a pair yet.

PN: Oh no! That’s awful. We’ll put that on Planet Notion.

MM: I’ll shame them into giving me a pair of shoes.

Words – Alexa Hall
Photos – Kevin Chesnais

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