Showing immediately after Asger Juel Larsen in a double bill, grindhouse-esque show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, T.Lipop showcased his similarly military inspired collection. Both the brand aesthetics of Larsen and Lipop are widely contrasting; but actually worked together walking back to back surprisingly well. WHO’D HAVE THOUGHT IT??
Like Larsen’s Soviet soldiers, T.Lipop’s models were also exposed to the brutal elements. Poor models. This time as arctic explorers with frosted facial hair and rosy cheeks; Captain Scott with a fashion conscience and sexy tats. Minimal, well-cut long leather and wool coats and digitalised camo prints carried the soft, broken down military theme. Pops of colour from crimson tunics and coats and deep navy jackets broke up the neutrality of the collection, while giant fur hoods and circle shades reassured us Mr Lipop thankfully doesn’t take himself too seriously. While the suiting and cuts were all gorgeous, what PN drooled over most were T.Lipop’s fur-lined leather rucksacks, roll mat and satchels. Practical and controversial!
We chatted to the dapper, super-suave Tom Lipop before the show as part of the Fashion East Mens installation…
Planet Notion: Tell me about the collection Mr T.Lipop.
Tom Lipop: Well our process is always based around what we want to design, what we want to wear. We looked at military and how boring military is in fashion, and how everyone just regurgitates workwear and military is luxury fabric – and there’s nothing new about it! So we wanted to take key pieces like the dufflecoat, arctic parkas and pea coats and bring them forwards with our cutting ethos. So most of the coats you see are broken down into three pieces.
TL: Yeah, I guess it is deconstructed; it’s minimising. The way I see it is that it’s a minimised aesthetic with a very technical cut and we remove things that don’t need to be there. If there’s an ugly dart, we’ll hide it with a seam.
PN: You refer to “we” – is there a big design team at T.Lipop?
TL: I’m the creative director, and beside me I’ve got my right hand man Ross Hancock. Ross and I come up with the designs, and everything is produced in house.
PN: There’s a wintery feel to your collection – do I spy frost on the facial hair of your models?
TL: Hahaha yeah sort if relates to Arctic Explorer which is what we called our theme this season. Arctic Explorer! So he’s been our in the wilderness for three weeks, he’s just killed fox and made a nice bag out of it. All our fur is ethical by the way!
Words – Ailie Robertson
Photos – Kaye Ford