And we’re off! The first show of London Collections: Men welcomed a sea of navy-suited and brogue-booted boys through the doors of the Royal Opera House to sit tightly for the heroes of heritage’s SS13 offerings.
Hackett’s characteristic ‘Chelsea Boy’ quotient was fulfilled in the first set which saw three-piece suits rendered in light as air – wools, linens, silks and cottons – echoing the nostalgia of Great Gatsby and twenties Hollywood. The colour palette was in-keeping with aforementioned themes: ivory, bone and creamy whites in the main were punctuated with all variety of coffee browns and the occasional Hackett staple, e.g. the red trew, making a brief cameo. The wide leg trouser made its first appearance of the weekend marking a slow but sure move away from its slimmer predecessor although silk and patterned varieties did sneak in.
This was the calm before the colourful storm which saw brave, all-over, Baroque prints swagger down the runway layered with checks, stripes and primary rain-come-duffle coats. The styling was also especially noteworthy and best described as a bold but successful move. For example, a mariniere paired with shiny, silver baroque trews hung on a particular beaut boy – inspired, apparently – by Picasso types’ ruling of the Riviera.
The closing set gave an affirmative nod to all that Hackett is renowned for: piped blazers varieties, basic yet luxe knits, sharp shirts and navy a plenty. Annexed among it were subtle Autumn Winter associations including the warmer colouring choices.
Admittedly, I was not over keen about going to the show but I was pleasantly surprised to see the brand breaking the rugby boy preconceptions with the introduction of a more directional vision.
The luxury British menswear brand champions the exact premise of London Collections with its Best of British design approach. Our appetites were appropriately whetted for a weekend filled with menswear (and the men modelling said menswear).
Words – Helen Turnbull
Photos - Kevin Chesnais