East London’s own Mr Start presented an uncharacteristically relaxed collection that even featured a frisson with the polo shirt.
The show begins with a few eccentric pastels before returning to a more predictable but far from boring palette. Touches of metallic shades ensure that the clothes retain drama despite their more casual shapes, whilst caps by Bernstock Speirs add a sense of playful cool that situates the collection firmly within a Hackney postcode. Death Rattle provide a raspy soundtrack that’s pleasantly contrapuntal whilst Brix Start squats beside an engrossed Tyler James.
Planet Notion: So things are a little more deconstructed and relaxed this time – what was the catalyst for that? What made you move away from more formal designs?
Philip Start: Well we’re not moving away completely, but we just think there’s another silhouette that can be a little bit softer. We’ve been very strong on roped shoulders, that’s been a very strong feature of the past. So we’ve moved on a little bit and now it’s a little less constructed, giving us a completely different look and allowing us to do more things. Fabrics will look and react differently and have a softer feel than they will in a more structured feel.
PN: Was that change quite organic? Was this an easy shift to make?
PS: Oh yes, it was easy. I just slip into things, you know? The casual wear is all tailoring inspired, I hate schleppy clothes. I don’t really like denim because most men use it as a default for not dressy. I do wear jeans occasionally but i think that men can dress beautifully and still be casual and it can still have a structure about it.
PN: How are you enjoying LCM?
PS: Well I’m sort of glad it’s over now, I hope I got a good reaction. It’s another journey for me. First time in my life doing a catwalk show, so another experience.
PN: Everyone is very focused on London this weekend; you highlight an even smaller area – Shoreditch. How does Shoreditch influence your designs?
PS: Well I live and work in Shoreditch. I always call what I do Shoreditch Luxury. Hopefully its got a bit of a Shoreditch vibe – it’s tailoring and formal wear. A sort of duality. Because we live and work there it’s very important to us. We’ve lived there for a long time. I like the whole thing about Shoreditch, the art and the music scene and the restaurants and the fact that it’s a village. It’s really great.
Words – Suzie McCracken
Photos – Kaye Ford