Christopher Raeburn secured himself a highly sought-after spot on LCM’s schedule. That is – he had the honour of hosting the menswear weekender finale – this lent itself to the privilege of having his SS13 parade before a tiny and tuxxed Tinie Tempah (#totesadorbs).
As fash-pack numbers, occupying The Hospital Club, dropped like flies in the early evening hours of the final day, the last men and women standing lined the main venue’s staircases for one last show of the first London, menswear showcase. Raeburn’s actual invitations were my favourite of the weekend’s fifty-odd shows (mini-parachutes emulating the brand’s famous motif) and this was enough to convince myself that the five hour, in-between-shows-wait would guarantee to be worth it.
We were ushered into our seats to twit-twoos of Raeburn’s SS13 mascot – the wise old owl – who proved to be a pinnacle part of the actual show. We watched with eagle eyes as an introductory fashion film played which saw said wise old owl steal the spotlight. The beautifully shot footage likened the film to Attenborough in his finest hour and the collection itself to the freedom of our feathered friends.
Stern models stomped down the runway in mesh-panelled and pocketed, olive, silver and transparent waterproofs to the beating of Mr. Owl’s heartbeat (authenticity akin to Attenborough). All designs were, of course, characteristically sourced from the re-appropriation of surplus fabrics. This season Raeburn borrowed soldiers’ sleeping bags to craft standard bomber, mac and parka shapes into statement product all the while maintaining high-performance values: attributes on which he prides his design ethos.
A man who has harnessed a reputation for casting a ray of light unto rainwear, Raeburn braves the land of the jersey for SS13, with variations of one striped shirts rendered in cosier cottons. T-shirts also make their debut and reveal the illustrious owl’s presence via graphic prints.
All in all we were reminded of Raeburn’s inimitable talent to fuse the stylish with the functional as he proved he is as wise as the mascot that personifies his latest two cents.
That’s a wrap boys and girls but from what we gather from talking to our fair city’s fashion bois, over the weekend, London Collections: Men will return next year, even bigger and better. You heard it here first.
Words – Helen Turnbull
Photos – Kaye Ford