And we’re off! We waved alreet to LFW SS13 in the exquisite confines of a Waldorf suite to perch with a complimentary (morning friendly) drink in hand as we witnessed our favourite couture meets ready-to-wear boys, Fyodor Golan’s fourth collection. We welcomed a healthy burst of colour as all manner of royal blue textures (sheer, sheen and sequins) rendered in flowing and folded silhouettes, shimmied up and down.
The Perspex headpieces provided a poignant talking point as did the contrasting intricate face jewellery. Lucky for you, the boys were keen to tell us all about it.
Planet Notion: Yet again boys, you provided a spectacular show, how d’you feel now it’s all over?
Fyodor Podorny: Crazy, emotional, I’ve never felt like that before.
Golan Frydman: It’s the most emotional we’ve felt so far, we don’t know why.
Fyodor Podorny: It was a very spiritual collection for us. It was a very different approach and the way we expressed things. Last season, it was very vibrant and energetic. This time we wanted the lightness to shine through.
Golan Frydman: We were creating the clothes from a soft place, if that makes sense. And I think, previous seasons we were making them from different, emotional places so we were almost quite fragile when we made them so now seeing it all over it’s like woah.
PN: Does this soft place allude to the two initial inspiration points (The book “Blue Tattoo” and the film “The Holy Mountain”)? And what drew you to these in the first place?
Fyodor Podorny: Yes. Somehow, by accident, we were in a bookshop and we noticed it (“Blue Tattoo”). This Victorian girl with a tattoo on her chin and we were curious.
Golan Frydman: We were drawn to the cover so I started reading it, then we read it in turns, on the tube, on the way to the studio every day – we were like ‘OK so now it’s my turn’. Olive, which is the hero of the story, she just felt like a perfect muse to base everything upon.
Fyodor Podorny: Yeah, the opposites that she went through – the massacre and the survival – adapting herself to that culture, new paganism in a way and then again coming back as a completely different person. So, it’s really all those opposites that we’re exploring between ourselves.
Golan Frydman: She was such a soft, Victorian, proper girl and she became this strong woman – it was a really inspiring story for us.
Fyodor Podorny: I watched “The Holy Mountain” a few years ago and felt this was the right way to use it for the spirituality value. It is very raw in the visuals.
Golan Frydman: It’s spiritual, it’s sexual, it has the heat and the calm at the same time and it all comes together in this collection.
PN: Yeah we really got a feel for the spiritual aspect what with the setting and the music. What about the head pieces? Where did they come from?
Golan Frydman: We collaborated with the amazing milliner, Zara Gorman, she is incredible. The hats also came from “The Holy Mountain“ and it felt right. We met Zara and she was so creative and so amazing to work with that we decided to take it all the way to the runway.
PN: You’ve become household names in an impressive few seasons, what’s your next goal?
Golan Frydman: Conquer the world! Hahaha no, you’ll have to wait and see.
Words – Helen Turnbull
Photos – Robbie Peachey