Looking forward to the future seems to be a recurring theme with the designers we’ve spoken to so far. Maria Grachvogel included. She adding an ethereal and futuristic vibe to her trademark draping for SS13 by playing with ideas (and materials) of transparency and re-thinking tailoring.
We managed to pop backstage for a chat post show…
PN: Maria, how are you feeling- calm?
MG: There’s always a lot of adrenaline after a show, but yes calmer.
PN: So what were you main inspirations? It was very ethereal on the catwalk.
MG: Yes it was, but also in a way futuristic-that was my whole thing this season, looking forward. Linear graphics.
PN: Yes because it was very flowing but also very structured at the same time.
MG: Yes that’s something I found very interesting, because I’ve been playing with draping for such a long time and I wanted to take it back to something that was much more paired down. Much more simple in terms of cut, and I played with aspects such as the panelling. I haven’t done that before and it gave a whole different dimension to the tailoring and the concept of it.
PN: And there was lots of sheer material, was that again playing around with panelling under it?
MG: Yeah I wanted to play with the layers of transparency and that whole idea. For me transparency is reflective of that kind of purity of looking forward. And I also used the layering as a veil of fantasy on the top.
PN: Yes, very angelic. And do you have a favourite look that encompasses the concept for this season? I have to say everyone gasped with joy when the first look came out.
MG: Yes well I do love the all white looks, and the black and white. Actually that’s where the whole collection started off, I started with the black and white and evolve that into the white with the sheer panels, so I guess for me that sums everything up!
Words- Emma Hoareau
Photos – Kaye Ford