Floaty chiffons and silken jumpsuits sound great on paper, don’t they? Despite some brave breast structuring and perfect leather jackets, Willow’s collection failed to deliver on the words. Sheer panelling and ankle-length floatiness felt very silent-department-in-regional-boutique rather than on-schedule at the most forward-thinking Fashion Week in the world. There was an old-school take on what is essentially a youth trend, refracted through a series of fabric choices (including a flame-textured orange that is totally misplaced) that resulted in a collection that felt empty of personality. There were saving graces: architectural bodies had great impact while oval skirt hemlines demonstrated design flair, but overall the collection lacked that something that makes it click. In a season of evolutionary, rather than revolutionary approaches, it could have been easy for Willow to have been a showstopper, but this collection had too much going on, and not enough careful design direction.
Words: Seb Law
Photos: Nick Shand