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#LCM AW13 Report: LA Lads

As you might’ve noticed, last week we didn’t post any menswear show reports from #LCM. You can find those elsewhere pon de internet, and frankly we were having far too much of a good time on our social media to spend time uploading things onto our CMS. So the day after, we got together at the Maison Notion for a discussion about what we saw, and we’ve got a great series of reports on London’s menswear coming up for you this week. First up, the inimitable Helen Turnbull takes on how the west coast came to central London…

#LCM came bearing many things: presentation-shitting pugs (at Nicole Farhi); infuriating but excusably entertaining fashion peeps (on every street corner within a 100m radius of The Hospital Club) spouting #shitfashiongirlssay anecdotal gems; and the real reason it’s acceptable for the UK and International fashion elite (and us) to ogle male models fuelled so gratuitously on free champagne, bi-annually: TRENDS, namely of the menswear and AW13 variety.

Leaving the play-by-play guide through what’s IN and then OUT (according to #LCM) to Vogue and friends, we’ve collated our three days’ worth of IN tweets into this forthcoming comment on a more coy (than ‘ORANGE is IN’ at least) micro-trend that emerged from three days of aforementioned boozed-up show attending, formed on the reliable logic that one’s a fluke, two’s a coincidence and three is trending (not on Twitter, yet).

The title of the piece sorta gives the game away (getting the puns in early) but it wasn’t until the final day’s penultimate shows (Katie Eary and Shaun Samson) that LA and its street ballers peacocked their presence.

Famed for its slouched uniforms of wide everythings, basketball and its LA heritage have creeped their way into designer’s realised dreams slowly but surely over the years. A quick flick through the archive collections of D&G and Calvin Klein will assure you that’s not an uninformed observation. Thankfully, LA’s hood boys and girls maintained a poignant presence at three notable collections this season.

Astrid Andersen set the ball rolling on day one at MAN, providing the fluke competent to our trend formula. Although she may have been criticised for regurgitating hella lotta her SS13 set and spewing it onto a new set of models with the addition of freakily foiled lips, points for progression were down but props for signalling this trend were up. Her sheeny, slack and super-luxe sportswear, rendered in more feminine fabrics (cashmere, fur, Japanese silk) and tones (gold and lilac), than her SS13, coerced nostalgic nineties connotations – kinda how I imagine those with more money than b-ball skills dress. The incorporation of fur (another ‘trend’) confirmed these associations while Astrid’s full name masqueraded as team branding. Also, Bomber jackets are IN: on and off court.

We thought little of Astrid’s isolated baggy trouser and tee tracksuits until Wednesday when Shaun Samson and Katie Eary followed suit, both greeting us with an equally LA-inspired set. Shaun Samson, an LA native himself, demonstrated no qualms in experimenting with needle-punched felting and oversized sportswear silhouettes. His kimono-style jumpers with signature American football slash hockey-player (sometimes leather) striping were accessorised with fur ear muffs and fulfilled our two’s a coincidence quotient. Shapes were more triangular than bpreviously, and fabric composition more refined echoing the resounding message that street boys do luxe too. Huge respect is due as the show was Shaun’s first solo outing (he was previously a MAN undergrad).

And bang, three’s a trend courtesy of Katie Eary’s gangster-grunge display. Hypnotic pink floral prints, vampy fangs and midnight black tailored separates likened Katie’s realised vision of AW13 to the hood’s heroin addicts. I’m not suggesting ya’ll go smoke on crack pipes (or adopt the LA lingo) but instead, come AW13 you’ll be fetching for everything androgynous and yearning for a Pulp Fiction fix.

BRB while I track down my own LA LAD.

- Helen Turnbull

(Images from Catwalking.com)



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