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#LCM AW13 Report Day 3

Header image: (left-right): Shaun Samson, E. Tautz, Xander Zhou

The final installment of our daily report from the LCM. Soak up the wonderful words of Brad Palmer and get your fix as we say farewell for another season.

(left): Christopher Raeburn; (centre & right): Baartmans and Siegel

Wednesday saw Christopher Raeburn take centre stage at the top of the schedule to kick off London Collections: Men day three; right around the same time as our hangovers were kicking in, courtesy of the previous evening’s ‘Fashion & Art Party’. After receiving our playful ‘message in a bottle’ invitations the week previous – sadly by means of courier, not gently lapping ocean waves – it came as no surprise that Raeburn’s collection of technical fabrics and engineered silhouettes saw map prints and a sense of exploration dominate.

Following a quick coffee pit stop and an involuntary shudder at the mere sight of a wine glass, we headed to the local Odeon cinema to catch the 10AM screening of Baartmans and Siegel‘s AW13 collection. In keeping with the cinematic puns, the design duo produced what we’re hailing as a ‘blockbuster’ collection of wearable yet luxuriously beautiful pieces, including double breasted fur collar jackets and pops of Autumnal tones. In the style of our new favourite twitter @in_then_out – which emerged to keep us entertained on the final day – orange is IN, explorer is IN, popcorn stuck to the bottom of your shoe is most definitely OUT.

JW Anderson

Taking a brisk walk over to the Old Sorting Office, newly adapted for this season to include several light columns and omit the painful 5 story stair climb, highly anticipated JW Anderson was our next stop. Subverting interpretations of gender through a juxtaposition of masculine and feminine , wool bustier mini dresses and frill hem shorts sat amongst boxy tailored coats and mohair sweaters, all finished with frilled, calf length leather boots. Seen amongst the crowd came sequels of glee, faces of sombre thought and gasps of shock from the less fashion traversed corporate hospitality guests. The Daily Mail hated it, quelle surprise. We felt it was a thought provoking collection that retained elements of wearability within a socially challenging concept. Yay for fashion that poses debate.

(left): Shaun Samson; (right & centre): E. Tautz

Heading back to the Hospital Club (or HC if your in with fashion crowd abbreviations) Shaun Samson‘s first solo show saw oversizing take prominence in a collection that channeled the relaxed street wear vibe of Los Angeles. Finishing looks with a practical twist, models wore ear muffs that left us scrambling to the back of our wardrobes in search of that pair we once got as a present.

Between shows we like to partake in stereotypical fashion activities like sip champagne in press lounges and stuffing our faces on free food from the bar. Or maybe that’s just the menswear shows, where they actually provided a substantial meal that went beyond the pile of nuts and quickly devoured limp salad seen at womenswear week? We also enjoyed having photographer Jonathan Pryce, our favourite street style snapper of the week, flag us down at various points during the three days to snapping our new Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr, Instagram and Pinterest profile pics for the next six months.

Clearly taking all those street style snaps have enabled him to predict next seasons trends as tartan featured prominently at the following E .Tautz show, one of our highlights of the day. When we say we wanted everything in the collection, we mean everything. From the diagonal tartan coats to the sharply tailored suits, graphic sweaters and metallic brocade trousers. Patrick Grant, if you’re reading this, hit us up? Pretty please?

(left-right): Katie Eary, Matthew Miller, Xander Zhou

From pattern to print, proclaimed queen of menswear prints, Katie Eary, was our next stop of the day. Showing vampire realness in the form of oversized blue lobster print tees, magenta florals and sharp fanged models, all set against a soundtrack of the best hip-hop. We danced in our seats whilst mentally recording a list of looks to pine over, which is really quite an achievement for us.

Back to the Sorting Office – you’ll noticed we burned off all our alco-calories walking to and from show venues – Matthew Miller started on a somewhat pessimistic note with ‘Born to Fail’ slogan sweaters, inspired by the lack of prospects for members of generation Y. Never one to disappoint however, slick black tailoring, bold stripe backpacks and sharply cropped trousers perked us right back up by the time the 3rd look hit the catwalk.

Last but by no means least, we walked begrudgingly back to the Hospital Club for our final show, Xander Zhou. With the slogan ‘Boys will be Boys’ as his mantra for the season, Zhou’s offering – his second collection since hitting the London Menswear scene for SS13 – saw a focus on layering and contrasts. With flashes of powder blue, cream and crimson red, each look was finished precisely and perfectly, from the ‘fold down’ coats and their contrasting textures, to the silver lapel pins, oversized sunglasses and glimpses of graphite prints. Shows over, we made one last visit to St. Martin’s Lane for a sneaky drink and a digest of the week before heading on our way with the happy thoughts of menswear – and scary thoughts of womenswear slowly creeping up on us – dancing around in our heads.

‘Til next time LCM! We love you, your friendly atmosphere and laid back style more and more every season.

- Brad Palmer

Images from Catwalking.com



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