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New York Fashion Week: Rag & Bone AW13

February 8th 2013 saw rag & bone present their Autumn Winter collection at New York Fashion Week. Fast becoming the go-to brand for cool Brit and New York girls alike, the show boasted a front row that included Poppy Delevingne, Tallulah Harlech, Alison Mosshart, Atlanta de Cadanet, Jen Brill and Drew Barrymore.

For AW 2013, rag & bone’s Marcus Wainwright and David Neville drew inspiration from aviation to create a covetable collection that elegantly balances refined luxe with urbane functionality. Who better to sum up the collection than Wainwright himself: “The starting point for the collection was aviation and its span of uniforms, from vintage military to PAN AM air stewardesses. We explored the theme further with aircraft carriers and other modern military aspects. Luxury fabrics and subtle, intricate detailing play a major role this season. English tailoring fabrics were also a big influence so we have very modern, digitalised interpretations of houndstooth and Prince of Wales.”

Vintage military flight jackets imbue the AW 2013′s utilitarian elements such as quilting and shearling lining. Pops of safety orange serve to further reference the aviation theme.

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Traditional fabrics are revitalized in this highly textured collection. Mohair is treated to produce a bouclé effect. Houndstooth and Linton tweed are rubberized and bonded to re-imagine Jackie O-inspired, tailored pieces. A Savile Row jacket, Wainwright was gifted from his father, inspired the menswear suiting element. Classic staples have been reworked, evidenced in a flight jacket constructed in cashmere, while leather, a Rag & Bone mainstay, is embellished with quilting and offered in a cool mineral green.

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Statement knitwear is an emphasis for AW 2013, with leather bonded, rubberized yarns, exaggerated sleeves and funnel necks. There is a play on proportions as minimalistic, 60s-inspired lines, manifested in collarless tailoring, wool and crepe back satin sheaths and miniskirts, are expertly contrasted with oversized shapes, inspired by the photography of August Sander. Tuxedo pants, dating from the 1920s, also influence silhouette.

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The color palette navigates grape, eggplant, flame orange, mineral green, along with jolts of royal blue. For AW 2013, the Pilot bag collection expands with the introduction of a streamlined, mid-sized silhouette. Footwear takes its cue from the season’s 60s’ vibe as haircalf loafers in bold colours and ankle boots compliment the looks.

- Gisela Henson



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