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#LCM SS14 Backstage: Martine Rose

Martine Rose continued her reappraisal of the presentation format, recreating a 1970s teenager boy’s bedroom in the basement of the Hospital Club. As is now customary for Rose, the divide between presentation and audience was entirely blurred, in this case literally; the distribution of flyers around the space that seemed to cascade from the inside the stage setup. As well as this, the array of objects on display at the presentation pointed towards a whole vibe to the collection, from a rotating cactus to a disco-bowl of silver glitter and a lonesome Adidas trainer as well as Rose’s collab line of furniture with Ligne Roset. The clothes riffed from this ‘70s teen vibe too, with huge wide-leg jeans, tiny football shorts and loose denim jackets, all rendered in a sharp monochrome. Rose’s continued play with androgyny (and interiors) saw lace doily undershorts, socks and collar details and a Farrah Fawcett flick wig on the model – all in all this was one of those shows that conveyed a sense of mystery and of many more ideas than you could take in in a period of 20 minutes or so. One of my favourite things about Rose’s shows is the way they unsettle the viewer; with such a radically-different presentation style to most other designers, the assembled fashpack are never quite sure how to approach Rose or her designs, and for me this elevates them to a sublimely intellectual and intriguing position.

Words: Seb Law
Photography: Kaye Ford

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