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James Long KF

#LCM AW14: 10 Collections We Can’t Wait to See

Whilst most of us are still nursing New Year’s Eve hangovers (and accidentally writing ‘2013’ as the date instead of ‘2014’), let’s think forwards in time for a minute. Past January. Right past Valentine’s Day. Over the long Easter weekend. Keep going past Glastonbury. Skip through bank holiday August’s drink fest. And then land somewhere around September – the official start of the Autumn/Winter 2014 season. Seems like ages away but for London’s menswear designers it’s a time at the very center of their thoughts, because next week the “AW14 London Collections: Men” will be revealed to the world. And so with this in mind, here are 10 of the LCM collections that we at Planet Notion can’t wait to see…

1) James Long – James Long has to be one of London’s greatest menswear designers and one that’s sure to lead the city’s trends for AW14. He masters everything he turns his hands to – be it his signature knitwear, his embellished denim, his quilted leathers or, as shown last LCM, his futuristic cycling sports-gear. In fact his mesh bomber is arguably one of the world’s most desired pieces of menswear for SS14; we’re literally itching to get our hands on one!

2) Xander Zhou – the Beijing based designer showing at LC:M for another season looks to deconstructed tailoring for his luxe aesthetic. His designs are fashion-forward, yet manage to retain enough classical form to appeal to a wide audience. Zhou is the man that has previously shown very, very short tailored-shorts, hoodies emblazoned with the phrase “Boys will be boys,” and floor-length off the shoulder capes for men. He creates fashion for the brave – with AW14 sure to takes things even further forwards.

3) Kit Neale – There’s always been something slightly ‘Children’s TV presenter’ about Kit Neale’s prints – in a very good way. It’s as if his muses are a combination of CITV’s classic Pat Sharp extravaganza ‘Funhouse,’ CBBC’s broom cupboard from the Andi Peters/Ed the Duck days, and the picture book section of a Primary School library. Be it lobsters, pineapples, aeroplanes, garden vegetables or toy race tracks, Neale’s playful side is exactly what makes him so unique. And best of all, whilst his prints may verge on kitsch, they exude a sense of humour and eccentricity that is quintessentially British.

4) Hunter Gather – Hunter Gather is the creative output of a design collective headed up by David Bradshaw – and something that is truly unique on the London scene at the moment. Their menswear looks to re-invigorate the classics in an affordable haute way – be it the classic shirt, coat, trouser or t-shirt. Their cuts are precise, materials luxurious and prices affordable. What’s more, we love any excuse to go visit their beautiful store on Wigmore Street, if only for the delicious cakes!

5) Lou Dalton – Lou Dalton is one of those designers where every single piece she creates is individually covetable – be it a tartan trouser, a silk bomber, a neon tshirt or a textured sweatshirt. She is playful with proportions and fabrics, but always true to her modernly refined look. She makes clothes we want to always be dressed in – regardless of the occasion.

6) Christopher Shannon – blurring the line where men’s high-fashion and streetwear meet, Shannon’s past few seasons have shown a new confidence in pushing things ever so slightly further into the avant-garde. We especially loved the colour blocked rubber twin-sets in his SS14 collection, and his ‘face’ jumpers are currently the look du jour with the style brigade on Kingsland Road. You’ll want everything he shows for AW14. It’s inevitable.

7) Craig Green – there’s nothing like a bit of hype to catapult a young designer into the public sphere, and from the moment his wooden face sculptures made the front page of The Guardian (being subsequently snubbed by David Gandy on live TV!), Craig Green has had his fair share of this. But there is substance behind the hype and Green has proven himself to be an outstanding designer. Showing as part of the MAN show, his collection will build on the craft manipulation of materials that he’s now famous for – whether they are burnt, crumpled, textured, distorted, shredded or ripped into a frenzy of layered chicness. This is fashion with an edge – an edge that we’re very much feeling.

8) Matthew Miller – If ‘technology’ and ‘sport-luxe’ were giant lasers pointing to towards the sky, Matthew Miller would be the blazing intersection that both lasers would meet at. His look is minimal and achingly beautiful – heightened through it’s simplicity, detailing, shapes and finishes, which for SS14 took on a starkly neutral architectural feel. It’s this purity of design that we can’t wait to see more of for AW14.

9) Ada + Nik – Minimalism, luxury and ethical sourcing are central to this exciting new label from co-creators Ada Zanditon and Nik Thakkar. Their Greco-Roman inspired SS14 collection was a capsule of monochrome leathers, chic sheer, open-backs and materials including human-hair. It’s a label cemented in pushing forwards contemporary design; an exciting new addition to the LCM schedule.

10) Katie Eary – This lady is the definition of ‘London cool,’ and when it comes to prints, none on the London menswear circuit are more impressive than hers. We can’t get enough of her SS14 hot-pink leopard and flamingo prints – complete with 90’s Backstreet-Boys inspired gelled-back curtains and skateboards. And we’re still dreaming about the gigantic flouro hyper-florals from the season before that. What she shows at LC:M for AW14 is sure to be a colorful feast to be gorged on with all senses.

Keep following Planet Notion over LC:M for all the latest from the shows.

- Gurdeep Loyal


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