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CLOTHSURGEON

Talent Emerging: ClothSurgeon

For this week’s Talent Emerging, I have to thank social media – a scroll down my Twitter feed in this case which led to me to discover a beautifully cut, double-breasted coat. Anyone who knows how hard those are to find will immediately understand my excitement. So it wasn’t long before I discovered that it was ClothSurgeon who was responsible. Little over a year old, the soon-to-be cult label based in London has generated quite a buzz—and rightly so. Headed up by creative director, Rav Matharu, ClothSurgeon does expressly what it intends to: perform surgical-like practices on a range of fabrics for a bespoke meets urban aesthetic.

That’s his story and he’s sticking to it. Think Savile Row with an edge; the story of British heritage combined with America’s zeitgeist. It’s almost irrelevant that Matharu doesn’t have a typical design background, because his determination surpasses the notion of it. Having worked at House of Billiam as head designer, he steadily developed his skills and gained all the training needed to start his eponymous label.

Today, ClothSurgeon is seen on famous figures the world over; expect clean, structured silhouettes, experimentation with fabrics and most importantly attention to detail.

Planet Notion: Hi Rav, tell us who’s behind ClothSurgeon.
ClothSurgeon: Right now it’s just me and my wife, Parv. I basically do all the creative side and she handles the business side.

PN: How did you get into designing?
CS: I have always been into design and creating. My initial career was as a professional footballer—I was at Leeds United until I was 21. Things didn’t work out and I went back into education.

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PN: The aesthetic behind the brand is an interesting one, what inspired the concept?
CS: There are two aspects to the brand. 1) seasonal collections; and 2) you can create whatever you want from whatever you want; it’s more than bespoke. It gives you the opportunity to bring to life to clothing that you may have only pictured in your head.

PN: Are there any designers you cite as inspiration?
CS: There are artists, musicians, and designers in all fields that inspire my work; whether they are from the past or present.

PN: Talking about musicians. You have designed for some talented artists; how did this come about?
CS: A lot of the time their stylist will get in touch and we create specific pieces. A lot of the artists genuinely like the brand so I don’t really have to force anything.

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PN: You use luxury fabrics to create juxtaposition between street-wear and high-end fashion. Is this done on purpose?
CS: Of course, I like timeless shapes and whilst re-working these shapes it’s important to consider fabric use, details, and fit.

PN: Using high-end inspiration within your work, what is your opinion on Savile Row as it stands today?
CS: Savile Row is a great piece of British history. I often walk down there and admire the craftsmanship that goes into the beautifully constructed garments, from incredible fabrics.

PN: In terms of the British fashion industry, where do you place yourself?
CS: Emerging British menswear label.

PN: Even as an emerging brand, what has been a highlight for you guys so far?
CS: I guess it’s the people who reached out to me to say that they are fans of my work. It’s nice to be appreciated for your hard work, especially from people who have been in the industry for some time.

PN: Ultimately it comes down to the wearer. Who are you designing for; can you describe the Cloth Surgeon wearer?
CS: I design for a customer who understands quality and fabrics. The bespoke side almost allows the customer to become the designer.

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PN: What can we expect from you this year?
CS: Collections and hopefully some great collaboration’s.

PN: You must have gone through a journey to get to where you are now. Do you feel that the British fashion industry provides enough support to new talent?
CS: Yes. We have been given a lot of good advice, and hope to use the platform to build the business.

PN: Can you share some of this advice?
CS: You only get out what you put in.

clothsurgeon.com
-Hardeep Gill



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