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Report: MFW AW14

Here at Notion, we find repetition rather boring. Not all repetition – we’re not opposed to a good repeated print or a re-released classic – but when it comes to show season, we’d rather not pour over the same musings on the same collections ten times over. This season, we’re bringing you our alternative guide to Milan Fashion Week, a high speed round up of the best new designers and lesser-known names, alongside a few famous favourites for good measure.

Antonio Marras

MarrasStumbling off the beaten path and into the deep dark woods, Antonio Marras’ AW14 collection had more than a touch of the Little Red Riding Hood, with it’s wolf and moon motifs, dark blood reds and spattered florals. An A-line silhouette took overall prevalence and we rather liked the chunky knits, mix-matched textures and heavy soled patent boots. Maybe not ideal for fending off ferocious beasts on the way to Granma’s, but then again we have taxis for that now.

Aquilano.Rimondi

AquilanoIf this season’s show is anything to go by, Design duo Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi really know how to do a square mannish shoulder and a good statement coat. Strong, accentuated tailoring, juxtaposed with draw string waists, embellishment and patchwork fabrics, the collection’s standout piece was undeniably the coat, whether it be oversized, belted, patchwork or flower embroidered. Close second came embellished sleeveless dresses with sheer underlay and plunging necklines in a collection that mixed sexy feminine, with masculine androgyny.

Marco De Vincenzo

MarcoTextured checks, ombre waves, rainbow stripes and abstract circles, there was a lot of print going down at Marco De Vincenzo. Tailored jackets were worn over softer, more loose dresses and skirts came in an array of legnths from mini to reserved knee length, in a frenzy of colour, swarovski crystals and embroidery. By all standards, it was a pretty jolly and upbeat collection, which is probably one of the reasons we liked it. Then again, we’d be pretty jolly too if LVMH had just bought a stake in our company.

Marni

MarniNestled amongst the likes of Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci, Marni is a brand that holds it’s own on the super brand-centric Milan schedule. A favourite amongst Fashion Editors (including a couple here at Notion), Marni perfectly encapsulates a bold, creative and by all means fun design aesthetic while never approaching the outlandish or pastiche. This season was no different; there were bold prints, striped furs, colour blocking, sports looks, feather coats that looks liked feathers and feather skirts that looked like grass. It was a feast of texture, colour, print and cut that was presented as perfectly normal and perfectly sleek. Marni, we heart you.

Iceberg

icebergThe word ‘Iceberg’, for those outside the fashion pack, will usually conjure flashbacks of a certain movie involving a ship and a young Kate Winslet hogging a door perfectly big enough for two. For those in the know however, this Italian Brand – which despite being founded in the 70′s has yet to become a household name – has been steadily garnering more attention. Now designed by Parisian Alexis Martial, the womenswear collection was a sharp mix of tailoring and sportswear that encapsulated bonded fabric suiting, semi-pleated graphic skirts, sheer overlay tops and roll neck sweaters. The collection could have gone without the harsh black shearling neck warmers but Iceberg still remains one of our brands to watch.

- Brad Palmer



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