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Report: #LFW AW14 Day 3

At Notion, we’re not about the idea of ‘banging out’ show reports while LFW is actually happening. We’re usually a bit pissed by the time shows have finished and tbh, it’s quite nice to review show reports, our own notes and proper catwalk shots before making a decision. With that in mind, here’s our edit of the top 6 shows at LFW day 3…

Pringle
Pringle
It’s undeniable that Pringle of Scotland is a brand with a rich and respected heritage.To be fair, most brands that follow the ‘of *insert country/city here* model do, bar those awful ones that also include the fact they were EST. 2013-14. What is good about Pringle – and particularly head designer Massimo Nicosia, now in his second season at the helm – is that they take this heritage, respect it and push it forward for the future. And what’s more futuristic than 3D printing?

What could have easily been an overzealously used gimmick for press, Pringle’s use of 3D printing appeared seamlessly through a collection that accentuated the brands famed knitwear in a sporty and sleek offering of muted palette with flashes of burnt orange and intricate textures. With all the key pieces present, from statement coat to chunky knit and slouchy trouser, these were clothes women (and a few male Notion staffers) want to not only admire, but wear.

Marios Schwab
Marios
Marios Schwab has always been one of the sexiest of the London designers (we’re not just talking about his clothes here) and while his woman may be alluringly sultry, his AW14 collection continues to retain a sense of glamour and sensuality.

Set against a catwalk lined with candles – which will we admit firstly evoked the thought ‘FIRE HAZARD’ before a less nimble show-goer knocked one over and discovered they were electronic – Schwab’s collection encapsulated flowing sheer chiffon gowns, in white, powder blue and navy with thigh skimming mini dresses with asymmetric shoulders and spatterings of leather. As a collection, it was deeply seductive in tone, as though one look screamed ‘I’m here and I’m god damn sexy’, the next ‘Not so fast, I’m a classy lady’ in a way that played on the sleek and soft, sexual and sensual. Oh Marios, you tease.

Temperley London
Temperley
Used in the context of a show report, the word ‘surprising’ can often be seen to represent the negative, much like describing your best friends ‘out there’ look of the day as ‘interesting’. In this instance however, when applied to Temperley’s AW14 collection, it is an adjective which should only be seen as fitting. Temperley is know for glamour; embellishment, femininity, red carpet, floor length gowns. AW14 is no leather-clad grungy biker chic turnabout, there’s still plenty to sustain Temperley fans the world over, but it does see a move towards a more diverse collection.

Rich in Italian inspired prints and bold colour, a more slick undertone ran alongside the trademark embellishment and gorgeous flowing sheer fabrics. Where once dresses ruled, there were offerings of sharply tailored trousers, square shouldered jackets and heavy scarves. If anyone should ever want to know how to move a brand forward, diversifying it’s image whilst retain it’s core, they need only look at Temperley. They rocked it.

TOPSHOP UNIQUE
topshop
Every season, Topshop creates what is almost always the most unusual and surprising venue of the season. Whilst this is sometimes (read last season) overshadowed by the fact that said venue is miles away from Somerset House, the food is always great, the booze freely flowing and production grand. This season, it was simply the venue that did all the talking. As show venues go, the Tate Modern is pretty amazing. Nestled in behind Anna Wintour, Phillip Green, Kate Moss and Kendall Jenner, we couldn’t help notice the hundreds of gazing eyes glaring down from the public viewing gallery above. It was kind of like being in a some weird exhibition/zoo. A ridiculously stylish and expensive zoo that fed it’s inhabitants champagne and superfood salad boxes.

Café grazing and paparazzi scrums over, the collection itself was perhaps what you would describe as eclectic. There were comfy jumpers, oversized coats, puffa jackets, fur (faux, of course), bold colours, muted colours, prints…there was even a python coat that reminded us of one Anna Wintour once wore back in 2009. There was a lot of take in and undeniably a lot to lust over. The coats were great, styled belted at the waist and off the shoulder styling, as were the sumptuous knits and underlying feel of a somewhat rebellious nature. Plus, the finale looked a bit like a rainbow and was accompanied by Beyoncé’s ‘Run the World (Girls)’…

Ryan Lo
Ryan
Ryan Lo is perhaps one of the shyest and most modest designers I’ve met. His collection was also one of the most fun and upbeat. Working out of an East London studio covered in pink, Hello Kitty and Slyvanian Families, it came as no surprise that Lo’s cowgirl themed collection had elements that wouldn’t look too out of place in the dreams of a young girl. Colours were bold, textures frilly and models armed (with toy guns). And while it was an inevitably playful collection, it should in no way be dismissed as just such. The pastel coloured knitted dress and jumper with horse motifs were equally cool and wearable as they were fun, whilst the full tweed dress and tweed coat, monochrome striped and navy frill hemmed dress looks were all understatedly refined and wouldn’t go amiss on a street style round up. Ryan Lo, we’ve got our eyes on you…

Palmer // Harding
palmer
Set in a Central Saint Martin’s theatre space and taking form in a kind of ‘figure of 8′ catwalk (which would have been a bit cooler had it not caused the models to narrowly avoid bumping into each other constantly), Palmer // Harding’s second full ‘not just shirts’ collection saw them expand the brands offering even further, with a sleek and somewhat sporty vibe. The statement white shirts the launched with were still there, expertly cut and accented with layering, ribbed textures and fine details but alongside them came textured jumpers in sculptural shapes, wide cut trousers and above the knee fitted skirts, all punctuated with flashes of neon yellow and bold crimson. This was a collection that was grown up, sophisticated yet inescapably interesting in its use of cut and detail. We also sat next to a rather strange – but nonetheless friendly – journalist with giant score placards who turned out to be doing one of those ‘let’s be funny at Fashion Week’ articles for The Evening Standard. Cue large photo of us, pulling our best deep in thought, ‘we’re not with him’ faces, sat next to said journalist and his giant placards.

- Brad Palmer

Cover Image, left to right: Palmer // Harding, Temperley, Ryan Lo

Go backstage at LFW with Planet Notion:
Lucas Nascimento

Osman
Marques Almeida
Vita Gottlieb
Giles
Zeynep Tosun
Basharatyan V
Busardi
John Rocha
Temperley
Apu Jan
Felder Felder
Kiev Fashion Day
Holly Fulton
Charlie May
Christopher Raeburn
Belle Sauvage
Pam Hogg
Jamie Wei Huang
J Js Lee
Ones-to-watch



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