14/05/2007 Pharrel, Diddy, Wu Tang, Gwen Stefani, the list goes on. In recent history the queue of musicians willing to attach their name to a collection of generic hoodies, t-shirts and jeans has had no shortage of, err, queuer-uppers. But what about the other way – designers getting into music? Welcome to the world of Fly53, a clothing company expanding at its own rate and on its own terms. They’re now complimenting their fashion ranges with ‘Fly By Night’ touring gig nights, while always staying true to their mantra of being ‘Outfitters For The Resistance.’
Music and a refusal to follow trends have always been at the centre of Fly53. In 1994 the company was producing band T-shirts for festivals, but they soon realised that there wasn’t a company, as they put it, ‘representing street culture.’ When their first collection of unique T-shirts sold out, and a second quickly followed suit, they decided to move the brand in that direction. Since then the company has maintained the underground ethos and grown steadily.
And music has taken the brand to heart. Those who have been ‘outfitted’ by the label include some of the best and brightest across all genres. From trip hop, house and indie rock to the latest fabricated dance-rock crossover, these clothes know no boundaries. You’re as likely to see Liam Gallagher’s simian swagger encased in Fly53 as you are Hot Chip’s awkward, robotic shuffle. Collections include everything you could possibly want from a brand. From head to toe, a gentleman – or lady – can be covered by garments containing a subtly embroidered Fly53 emblem. But, lest we forget, it all began with printed T-shirts. And it’s these which still form the backbone of the Fly53 brand’s success.
A quick glance over this spring’s offerings shows the logo interwoven into many of the iconic images of the 20th century. Take the hammer and sickle – the Soviets’ glorified, symbol of the strength of a unified peasantry and industrial workforce. It’s now been contorted to include the Fly53’s lightning and grain logo, itself a representation of the brand following its own path while always retaining a distinct element of mystery.  And it’s this mystery which is entrenched in the associated story of a Bolivian kickball-playing ‘wolf man’, who after touring with the 80s metal sect is kidnapped, only to re-appear many years later as a florist in Kidderminster. Surreal tales aside, nothing is too sacred to deny it the Fly53 graphical print treatment. From a host of socialist symbolisms to yellow submarines, Blaxploitation and Rainbow, anything goes. But the one constant is always the undercurrent of defiance and willing conflict. ‘It comes from our interest in underground sub-cultures, and our tagline, ‘Outfitters For The Resistance’ sums it up,’ says Will. And further emphasising their DIY ethos, one of their first T-shirt collections was named 53R135 after the Letraset characters which adorned the pages of the punk and indie fanzines the design pair read in the 80s.
Growth has now reached the point where the Somerset shed, in which the first T-shirts were hand printed, has had to be abandoned like so many discovered rebel hideouts. As with most fashion designers times have occasionally been tough, but the firm recently secured investment from Gola, which Will has described as ‘essential for the brand to progress to the next level.’ But purists shouldn’t fear, occasionally bigger can be better, and the brand certainly won’t be abandoning its punk roots.
The new, larger Fly53 has had the opportunity to expand into the world of music, with a succession of gig nights, including acts such as Dirty Pretty Things, The Futureheads and Pink Grease. Future dates will continue to include more cutting edge artists.
Finally though, despite their association with subversion and resistance, a sad omission from their collection is the classic French beret. Still, with what is on offer – and perhaps in a deliberate semi-ironic twist – any prolonged resistance on the punters’ part is surely futile.
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